How To: Rip Your Music Like a Pro

By John Herrman

For most people, dropping a CD into their disc drive and clicking “Import” in iTunes is good enough. For music freaks, though, it’s not—and with good reason. Here’s how to digitize your tunes, the right way.

First off, some reasons to take this road: iTunes is a decent audio encoder, and it’ll get your music from point A—the CD—to points B, C and D—your computer, your MP3 player and your backup drive—without much trouble. But it’ll do it with a less-than-great encoder, with occasionally inconsistent tagging, with album art that’ll only work on Apple devices, and without support for the best lossless audio formats and MP3 encoding options, which you probably want, whether you know it or now.

In short, the ripping process deserves a little more care than iTunes or Windows Media player can give it. You can pay people for this, which feels dumb and wasteful, or you can do it yourself. It’s not difficult, at all. Here’s what you do:

Get Your Software


The first step to ditching iTunes is to, well, ditch iTunes. What we’re looking for is ripping software that offers more encoding options than iTunes, but more importantly, a better encoder. And as far as MP3 encoders go, the open source LAME is as good as they get. There’s plenty of software for both Mac and PC that leverages this encoder, but here are two programs that do lots, lots more.

Mac OS X: Max
From the makers:

When extracting audio from compact discs, Max offers the maximum in flexibility to ensure the true sound of your CD is faithfully extracted. For pristine discs, Max offers a high-speed ripper with no error correction. For damaged discs, Max can either use its built-in comparison ripper (for drives that cache audio) or the error-correcting power of cdparanoia.

What this translates to: Great error reduction, fantastic sound quality, and tons and tons of encoding options—not that you really need those to do a good rip, but hey, they can’t hurt. On top of all this, Max is also a great file converter, in case you’ve got some delinquent WMA files scattered around.

Windows: Exact Audio Copy
From the makers:

Exact Audio Copy is a so called audio grabber for audio CDs using standard CD and DVD-ROM drives. The main differences between EAC and most other audio grabbers are
• It is free (for non-commercial purposes)
• It works with a technology, which reads audio CDs almost perfectly. If there are any errors that can’t be corrected, it will tell you on which time position the (possible) distortion occurred, so you could easily control it with e.g. the media player

What this translates to: The best error correction money can buy, for free. Seriously: Audiophiles swear by exact audio copy, and with good reason. You’ll have to download your own LAME encoder before you can enable MP3 encoding in the program options, but you can do that right here without a problem. Additionally, setting up tagging, which you’ll definitely want to do, takes an extra, albeit easy, step.

If you want to take a simpler route you can just download CDex, which supports LAME and tagging databases out of the box, and produces results nearly as good as—if not as good as—Exact Audio Copy.

On both platforms, you’re going to have a lot of personal decisions to make. How do you want to organize your files? How do you want to name them? Unlike iTunes, these apps don’t pressure your to store your music in a certain way—it’s up to you to archive as you please. Both offer plenty of options for storage and organization, easily available in their Preferences menus:
As I said, this one’s up to you.

Choose Your File Type

MP3: If you’re encoding only for portable devices, not concerned about archiving perfect copies of your music, hate hate hate audiophiles, think FLAC and OGG just sound like gurgling baby noises, you’re probably going to want to stick with MP3s. Yes, there are other formats that offer a better size-to-sound ratio, and no, it’s not open source or anything, but for pure compatibility, control, and encoder choice, it’s hard—-no, impossible—to beat MP3. And if you set up your encoder correctly, MP3s can sound great.

It’s tough to pick the optimal MP3 bitrate on your own, since at a certain point, differences in sound quality seem to come down as much to psychological factors as to actual clarity. Thankfully, we’ve crowd-sourced this issue and come up with a rough guide: 256kbps is, it seems, where people just can’t really tell the difference. In practical terms, this means setting your encoder to these settings:

That’s no higher than 256kbps VBR—for variable bitrate, which modifies the amount of information in your file’s stream according to how much is needed, and saves you space without sacrificing quality—with the highest (read: slowest) available encoding option. For almost everyone, in almost all circumstances, this’ll do, and it sure beats iTunes default 160kbps constant bitrate rips.

FLAC: If archiving is your intention—as in, digitizing your music without losing any quality, no matter how imperceptible—then you’re going to want to go lossless. And of the lossless formats, FLAC is the most well-supported in terms of software and hardware, albeit not on any of Apple’s products—though iTunes can be made to play nice with FLAC with a few simple tweaks.

But don’t fret! The beauty of FLAC music is that it can be converted to other lossless formats, like Apple’s iPod-compatible Apple Lossless, without losing any quality, or compressed into MP3s without having to worry about muddy transcoding. Think of them as CDs without the physical disc, basically.

Embed Your Album Art

This is something else that iTunes doesn’t do right: album art. Sure, it’ll find it, but when you transfer all your music to a non-iPod music player, your art is gone. Why? It’s because iTunes stores the album art in a separate database, rather than in the song file’s ID3 tags, where it should be.

On Mac OS, assuming you’re doing your listening in iTunes, which is pretty handy at fetching album art, you can just use one of Doug’s famous iTunes scripts to write said album art directly to your MP3 files. Here’s how you install it:

To install the files/folders, drag the items in the disc image window to your [username]/Library/iTunes/Scripts/ folder. If there is no folder named “Scripts” there, create one and drag the files into it. AppleScripts placed in this folder will be listed in the iTunes Script menu. You do not have to install the .rtf/.rtfd documentation file in the “Scripts” folder, but it’s as convenient a place as any.

For Windows users, Lifehacker’s written a fantastic guide to collecting and embedding album art, which you should definitely read. The short version? Download MediaMonkey, and let it do the work for you.

Granted, once you embed album art into your files, apps like iTunes and Windows Media Player might not display it, and may ask you to search for it from their databases. This is fine: Both programs use proprietary album art storage systems, so just because they can’t see your ID3 tag album art doesn’t mean it’s not there, or that you shouldn’t have embedded it—having it around can’t hurt, and it’s by far the most compatible and rational method for storing album art, as far as other software, most MP3 players and long-term storage go.

Anyway, that’s it! Now you can set your CDs aside comfortably, knowing that you’ve squeezed the purest, most delicious audio files you can out of them. Now:

Listen to Your Music

Because that was the whole point.

source

Related articles by Zemanta

Reblog this post [with Zemanta]

How To: Back Up All Your Stuff, For Free

Image representing Gizmodo as depicted in Crun...Image via CrunchBase

People don’t neglect backing up their computers because it’s hard—it isn’t, at all. No, people file into the inevitable death march of data loss for one reason: Backing up usually costs money. But it doesn’t have to.

When your concerned friends and family insist that you have to back your data up (as anyone who’s seen my atrociously beaten-down laptop in the last few months has done to me) they’re effectively telling you two things: That backing up your data will save you a massive headache in the future, because more likely the not, your hard drive will fail; and, less bluntly, that you need to buy a hard drive. And who wants to do that? It’s hard to lay out the cash for a backup hard drive, since the payoff is uncertain, and (hopefully) far away. It’s a good investment—not an easy one.

The good news is, most of us cheapskates can still keep our most important files safe without spending a dime, or wasting more than a few minutes. Here how:

Note: These methods don’t give you traditional, full backups—they are ways to keep copies of the files that matter most to you, like your documents, photos, music and videos.

Share


Do you live with someone else? Do you share a network with someone else? Then hey, you’ve got an ready-built backup system right there! There are a few ways to deal with this setup, from stupid-simple to moderately complex.

First, you need permission. Whoever your networked buddy is, sit them down and have a talk. Give them a glass of milk, and explain to them how important data backup is. Persuade them. Coax them. Scare them. Offer to store their backups in exchange for them storing yours. Great! Now you have a partner in data safety. Congratulations.

The easiest, most direct and least intimidating way to get free backups is to set up simple file sharing on your PC or Mac. On the PC, it’s just a matter of ticking a few boxes and setting a few parameters (Windows XP, Windows Vista, Windows 7) and on Mac, it’s not much harder (To another Mac, to a PC, courtesy of Lifehacker).

Now you need to decide what to back up, and how to do it. If privacy isn’t an issue, like in a scenario where you’re just syncing files between two open access family computers, you can simple copy your documents, photos, video and audio to opposing computers’ shared folders, and voila. If privacy is an issue, like if you’re trying to back up sensitive documents or embarrassing photos, you can simply create a password-protected archive of some or all of your data, then copy that over to the backup folder.

But this is all a little manual for my taste—for a longer term solution, I’d recommend something a little more automated. All we need with such a simple setup is a basic backup utility. For Windows, I’ve been happy with IdleBackup, a free little utility that’ll copy selected folders to any destination you want—including network folders—while your computer isn’t working. For Mac, Lacie’s SilverKeeper is as simple and powerful a tool as you’ll need, syncing folders locally or over a network on a set schedule—also free.

Go Online


Again, short of purchasing a whole lot of online space especially designed for the purpose of storing full backups, this’ll be a scenario in which you’re picking a choosing what you save and what you don’t; your intention here is to save and recover the files that matter most, not restore your entire operating system. Luckily, with increasingly generous offers from online storage companies, you can put quite a bit of your stuff on someone else’s servers for nothing. A few of the best:

Windows Live Skydrive: This one really deserves more publicity that it seems to get, because it hands you 25GB of no-strings-attached storage, for free. The 50MB filesize limit is a little low considering how large the online disk is, but for document, photo, and even music backup, it’s hard to beat this.

File Factory: 100GB of free storage with a 300MB file limit. The catch? It can be a little slow, so this much data isn’t necessarily that usable.

Dropbox: This is more than just a backup service—it has plenty of nifty file syncing and features, too—but it’s a super-simple way to store 2GB of data online, with well-designed clients on every major platform

Mozy: Gives you 2GB of storage for free, or an unlimited amount for $5 a month. Comes with an extremely handy Windows utility that makes it easy to specify what gets uploaded, and what doesn’t.

Orbit Files: Offers 6GB of space, but with fewer options available for non-paying customers, and no software client.

Scatter Yourself In the Cloud

The bad news is, this is the most time-consuming way to skirt proper backups, both in terms of setup and recovery. The good news is, you’re probably already doing this, to an extent.

If my laptop died right now, I’d lose my settings, a little bit of music, a few day’s worth of documents, and well, that’s about it. That’s because so, so much of my data lives in various online services, just by nature of how I work. Rather than undertaking a day-long effort to upload all your files to myriad websites, just consider changing your habits a little, and easing into a cloud over time. That these services provide useful backups is incidental—usually they’re intended as web apps—but that doesn’t mean they don’t serve the purpose beautifully. Use them for their intended purposes-be it document editing, photo sharing, or music streaming—and you’ll soon realize that, without even trying, you’ve create a wonderful, distributed backup of your most-used media across the internet.

Documents:

Google Docs: This one’s a no-brainer, since a lot of you probably already use Gmail, with which Docs is tightly integrated. It can sometimes break formatting in files, but at least you won’t lose important data.

Office Live: Microsoft’s take on the online office suite comes with a free 5GB, which, let’s be honest, is an awful lot of Word documents.

Zoho: As an online office suite, Zoho offers a few little features that Google and Microsoft don’t. As a storage service, though, they only offer 1GB. Still!

Photos:

Flickr: The obvious choice for photography geeks, Flickr give you unlimited storage for free, at a rate of 100MB a month.

Snapfish: With fewer options for enthusiasts, Snapfish’s draw is its unlimited storage and orderable photo prints.

Picasa: 1GB of Google’s storage space for free out of the box, with a nice client to boot.

Photobucket: Another 1GB of free storage, but this one takes video as well.

Facebook: This might seem like an unlikely recommendation, but they’ve got one of the best deals going, in a way. If you’re not concerned about the quality of your photo uploads—like, you just want them for onscreen viewing—you can upload unlimited photos here, 200 at a time. And in any case, a medium-quality JPEG is better than no photo at all.

Music:

MP3Tunes: Puts your music library everywhere, with a bevy of client apps for various platforms, including the iPhone. 2GB of free storage isn’t much, but it’s something.

File Factory: Mentioned above in the general storage section, FileFactory also has a web interface for music. 100GB is quite possibly enough to store your whole library.

Deezer: A French music streaming service that also lets you upload as much music as you’d like, for personal use.

Video:

This is the most hackish of the bunch, but YouTube, Vimeo, Viddler and the like usually support private or invite-only videos, which means they can act as last resort backup solutions, though the loss of quality and long upload times might make these plans a little unwieldy.

source

Related articles by Zemanta

Reblog this post [with Zemanta]
  • Calendar

    • May 2024
      M T W T F S S
       12345
      6789101112
      13141516171819
      20212223242526
      2728293031  
  • Search